Keokuk Yacht Club to Burlington, Iowa

We departed Keokuk Yacht Club after a 3 day stay. 
 Keokuk Yacht Club, as we departed.

Our goal was Burlington, Iowa.  We had thought we could stay at the Bluff Harbor Marina but were told, ”You will be pushing mud to get into the marina”  due to the drought conditions on the Mississippi River.  We were given permission to tie up to a public dock near a bridge.  “No water, electricity or bathroom" but we had a dock and ability to take Tori off the boat and PLENTY of water below our keel.  

Burlington public dock near boat ramp.

We were sad to see a restaurant that we ate at in 2018 as we began the Great Loop — Big Muddy's — had "permanently closed”.

Hannibal, Missouri to Keokuk, Iowa

We departed Hannibal at 6am to head towards Keokuk, Iowa.

Sunrise on the Mississippi River as we departed Hannibal.

  

We had three Lock and Dams to get through, which is always an unknown for time to lock through if a barge is within the lock or will enter before us.  All went smoothly with the 1st two — #21 and #20.  

When we got to #19 at Keokuk, a barge got ahead of us so our wait "would be an hour to 1-1/2 hours,” we were told.  So...we found a boat club near the lock that said we could come ashore to let Tori relieve herself.  While we were tied up waiting for the L&D, another boat tied up next to us and commented on our WASHINGTON state flag, our dinghy that says BAINBRIDGE ISLAND, AND our familiar style boat — Nordic Tug.  I took Tori up the metal staircase and Dan began a conversation with the other boat occupants.  They had moved to Keokuk from Issaquah, Washington. They LOVE being back in her home town.  We felt very connected with our history of the Seattle area and understanding too why we moved to the Midwest...
pricing out of the real estate market.  

We got word that we could soon enter the lock so we departed the South Side Boat Club and new friends.  Floating bollards in this lock.  We watched in horror a woman also in the lock, attempting to lasso the bollard.  I was sure she would fall in — scary. 

New friends, Washingtonian transplants to Iowa.

Finding the Keokuk Yacht Club, we settled in...for 3 nights.

Two Rivers Marina (Rockport, Illinois) to Hannibal, Missouri

We departed TWO RIVERS MARINA and made it only as far as Hannibal, Missouri.  The temperature was going to 98 degrees plus and with the high humidity it felt like 106 degrees.  We found the Hannibal Municipal Harbor and tied our boat to the end of the docks.  We could see we were stirring mud below us as we came to the dock.  NEXT — FIND A RESTAURANT, HOTEL and stay COOL.  BEST WESTERN had all we needed.  That evening there was a thunder storm with winds up to 60mph.  We were happy and safe in the hotel.  Tori would have been frantic with the thunder.  

Heavy sections to place in the openings of the levy, to block the flooding.

Levy wall and entrance to the Hannibal harbor.

The next morning we returned to the boat for a 6am departure and found, sadly, that our GOLD LOOPER FLAG AND POLE WERE GONE!!  BUMMER!!  We ordered another and will soon have a Gold burgee flying again.

Pause in Progression up the Mississippi River: Two Rivers Marina

To catch up on our progress up the Mississippi River, against the current...

On July 27 and 28, we stayed at Two Rivers Marina in Rockport, Illinois.  We were under a covered boat slip.  We had hoped to visit the STORY WALK, a sculpture park in Louisiana, Missouri, but the temperature was 95+ with high humidity.  The water temperature was 88 degrees.  When we last visited in 2018, as we began the Great Loop, it was October and cool… not this time.  In 2018, the marina was flooded and a challenge to get on and off the docks.  This visit was a drought condition.  And Two Rivers Marina has NEW MANAGEMENT AND A SWIMMING POOL!!  

On the morning of July 28, as we walked to the office, one of the workers was holding an extended arm and a tight grip on an upside down snapping turtle that had been removed from the pool.  YIKES!! 

We were welcomed to an every-evening gathering under a shelter overlooking the boats in the marina — Two Rivers Marina Boat Club members: "JOIN US"!

Grafton Harbor to St. Charles, Missouri (John's Boat Harbor)

We departed from Grafton Harbor to begin our travel north on the Mississippi River, against the current.  We went a short distance to St. Charles, MO to John's Boat Harbor to get our impeller replaced.  

Entrance into the private John's Boat Harbor.The Gammel Dansk on end of dock near the boat ramp.  We were told that in 2019 the water was flooded beyond where this picture was taken.
It flooded their offices behind where I stood.View from our boat to the Mississippi River - barges and pusher tug
heading south.

We stayed one night and then departed for TWO RIVERS MARINA in Rockport, Illinois.  As we entered Lock and dam #25 — the lockmaster on the wall above us said, “YOU HAVE BEEN GONE A LONG TIME!!”  I said, " Yes, we started in 2018.”  HE REMEMBERED US from 2018!!  He said, "I wasn't working here at this lock then, but I met you in Louisiana,  Missouri and talked with you."  He then said softly, “He's blind, right?”  I confirmed.  DEFINITELY REMEMBERED US.  We shared our boat card with him — of us in front of the Statue of Liberty and a print of my SPARROW painting.  A SWEET MOMENT for him to recall the Gammel Dansk and crew.

Floating Bollards

This is a floating bollard that allows boaters and the tugs to wrap a line around the bollard.  

The bollard floats up and down so boats can tend their lines on the bollard.  This type of bollard eliminates hanging on to a cable secured at the top of the lock chamber.  As the water level descends you must tend your line — Never NEVER tie the line to your boat because, if you are inattentive and fail to tend the line, your boat with line tied to the boat cleat may hang on the lock wall with no water below.  The lock workers are always checking to see if your line is free and not tied to the cleat of your boat.  The floating bollards eliminate the hassle of tending lines.  Just float with the bollard by throwing one line around the stem of the bollard and wait for a ride up or a ride down. 

Construction Tug and Lincoln in Beardstown, IL

Gammel Dansk ties on to a Logsdon Tug Services construction barge
in Beardstown, Illinois.  

Dangers everywhere.  This sign was posted right next to the Gammel Dansk.

This is the land of Lincoln.  A young Abe Lincoln made his reputation as a young and upcoming lawyer.  He was the defense attorney in what is referred to as “The Almanac Trial.”  Google that.  We went to the courthouse where the trial was held.  The courthouse was built in 1844.  We also visited and stood in the town square park where Abe Lincoln and Stephen Douglas held a public debate.  Many old brick buildings in the town still survive from that era.  We had no amenities at the barge.  However, the people were incredible in helping us.  One of the unexpected positive experiences on the Loop.

Grafton, Illinois: Completing the Loop!

Captains Mary and Dan upgrade to a Gold Looper burgee after successfully completing 6200 miles on the rivers lakes and waterways of America!

The crew of the Gammel Dansk: Mary and Dan and Tori the Seeing Eye Dog in Grafton, Illinois. 

We crossed our wake on July 21, 2021.  We are now privileged members of the group to call ourselves GOLD LOOPERS!!!

The 1982 #50 Nordic Tug Gammel Dansk and Mary, Dan and Tori the Seeing Eye Dog traveled these 6200+ miles together to become Gold Loopers.

Grafton, Illinois, fireworks as we celebrated crossing our wake.  Mary celebrated by praying thankfully that our Loop was completed and we are close to home.  Dan celebrated by ordering margaritas two at a time.

Float Houses

Float house community on the Illinois River near Wilmington, Illinois. 

We moved through the city of Joliet, Illinois, that has a wall you can tie up to at no charge, but no amenities like electricity and water or showers.  We moved on to Harborside Marina with the float house community.

Locking on the Illinois

Waiting for the tow boat to push barges into the lock.  The commercial vessels have priority and recreational or Ted boats have to wait until the barges have locked through. 
We waited 1-1/2 hours for our turn to lock through.

 

Our turn now!

Chicago River Sights

Barge loaded with sand on the Chicago River.

Sand and gravel being unloaded.  Sand is a commodity that is moved on the rivers by barge for road building and making asphalt.  Lots of barge traffic hauling gravel. 

Asian Carp Prevention

Electric fence to keep Asian Carp out of Lake Michigan

Electric underwater fence that stretches across the River bottom. It must of been working as we did not see one Asian Carp.

Gammel Dansk parks for the night in front of the pink float house for the night.

Motoring Through Chicago on the Gammel Dansk

We left on July 14, and boy was motoring through Chicago on the Chicago River something!

Even without the a tour guide telling us which buildings were what, we were able to figure out this one.

Monkey Business at the Chicago Art Institute

This is a ceramic model of a larger sculpture. 

It is a balloon monkey.  The kind Jerry Brader does.  I was standing on the side of the display representing the monkey’s tail. While standing there trying to figure it out, I heard a woman say to someone I assumed was her husband, in a very Sister Mary Margaret tone, “you'd better start praying for all those impure thoughts you are having."  I struggled to see and then I saw what she saw and what he saw.  The monkey’s tail looked like a very nice-sized penis that would make any guy envious.  Five Hail Marys for you.  RIGHT NOW.  You too, because you see it now.  Get started on those Hail Marys! 

A Visit to Prominent Chicago Residents

We were able to walk from the Gammel Dansk to the Chicago Art Institute and see the Obama portraits.  

We had seen an exhibit by Kehinde Wiley at the Seattle Art Museum.  Check his artwork out on Google images.  He did the portrait of Barack Obama.  We lucked out and got tickets by going early in the morning and waiting in line.  We felt fortunate to see the portraits in the Obamas' hometown.  The portraits will travel to five cities in the US, then return to the National Portrait Gallery in Washington DC, and eventually be displayed in the White House. 

Downtown Chicago Steps Away

 Downtown was easy walking distance from our slip at GuSable

Finding a picnic spot when in downtown can be a challenge.

This median looked good to us -- at Monroe and Michigan.

Dan, Mary and Tori all copped a squat on this green space and enjoyed a picnic lunch in the middle of the city.